As people displaced during the civil war return to the countryside, the land issue is one of Angola’s biggest challenges
What would the people of Angola be without land? Teresa Quivienguele
thinks for a moment, then says: “We’re nothing without land. Land is our
mother, a tool to survive and evolve as people.”
At the Angolan NGO Action for Rural Development and Environment’s
(Adra) headquarters in central Luanda, where Quivienguele has her
office, a map of the country covers the wall. There are many things to
do, she says, and being in charge of Adra’s social projects means doing a
lot of work. “The land issue is Angola’s biggest challenge,” she says.
Land became state-owned after independence in 1975. But since the end
of the civil war in 2002 – and with land reform in 2004 – things have
started to change. Foreign companies now invest in infrastructure,
minerals, diamonds, oil and land. But the risk is that the rural
population gets left behind as large areas are leased to foreign farming
and mining companies, instead of providing for those who fled to the
cities during the war but are now returning to the countryside. “Angola
needs less bureaucracy when it comes to protect rural land that’s been
in the possession of families without any legal papers,” says
Quivienguele. “It requires strong leadership that can stir Angola into a
sustainable future.”
Highway 28, in vast Cuando Cubango province in Angola’s south-east,
used to be called the road of death. It ends at the site of the cold
war’s last, and one of Africa’s bloodiest, battles. Cuito Cuanavale
involved the People’s Movement for the Liberation of Angola (MPLA)
government and its Cuban and Soviet allies against National Union for
the Total Independence of Angola (Unita) rebels supported by South
African troops and CIA advisers. It ended in a stalemate, and the
withdrawal of foreign troops from Angola. The battle lasted for six
months between 1987-88 and claimed, officially, 8,000 lives.
Today, Cuito Cuanavale is trying to build its future. It is not easy:
infrastructure is lacking and there are few investors. Politicians,
though, say a bright future is at hand, through large-scale extraction
of Cuando Cubango’s mineral resources and turning the roads into an oil
export highway to neighbouring Zambia. A massive memorial site has MiG
fighter planes, tanks and firing ramps next to a modern airport.
The only place to stay is a mosquito-infested pensão. Do
they have rooms available? “Sure we do,” a man says. “100,000 kwanzas
(£600) per night.” It’s hard to tell whether it is a bad joke or the
best way to keep out strangers. At Cuito Cuanavale’s sole health clinic,
the administrator, Fernando Visesa, explains why the future looks
bleak. “Malaria never ceases to attack our community, we can never rest.
Malaria kills a hundred people every year, just in this town.” Visesa,
who served as a military doctor during the battle, says: “It’s getting
warmer, and that means more diseases, while farmers find it very
difficult to [grow crops].”
Rusty tanks lie by the roadside, and children play inside them. A
family has gathered under a tree for shade. People are waiting for rain –
last year saw the worst drought in southern Angola in 30 years. Unicef estimates that 1.5 million people
in the area are food insecure, a region with high maternal deaths and
one of the world’s lowest life expectancies. Yet Angola is one of the world’s fastest growing economies. Ler +
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